西藏手册(78):拉萨(1)-简介,道路指南
西藏手册(78):拉萨(1)-简介,道路指南
LHASA
=====
BASICS
Area 664 sq km; Alt 3,590m; STD code (86)-891; Main languages Tibetan
and Chinese; Distance from Gongkar Airport 96 km; Temperature Jan:
max 10C, min -8C, July: max 25C, min 10C; Oxygen 68%; Annual
precipitation 1,462 mm, of which 90% falls in summer and early autumn
(July/Sept). Kyi-chu run-off approximately 16-19 litres/second/sq km.
SOCIAL INDICATORS
Population 160,000; Han immigrant population 29% (excludes mobile
unregistered Han population of approximately 80,000). Literacy 66%.
Birth rate 18:1,000. Infant mortality rate 129:1,000. Death rate
14:1,000. Religion (Buddhist 73%, Muslim 2%, Atheist 25%).
CLIMATE: LHASA
-----------------------------------------------
J F M A M J
-7,9 | -6,9 | -1,13 | 4,16 | 7,20 | 11,23 |
-----------------------------------------------
J A S O N D
11,22 | 10,21 | 7,21 | 2,17 | -4,11 | -7,7 |
BEST TIME: mid-March -- mid-Novmember
The holy city of Lhasa (Ch Lasa Shiqu) is the historic capital of
Tibet, situated on the N bank of the Kyi-chu River, where the valley
opens out to its fullest extent. To the N of the city lies an
impenetrable 5,200m range, extending from Mt Gephel Utse (above
Drepung in the W) to Mt Dukri Tse (above Pawangka) and Mt Sera Utse
(above Sera in the E). To the S, on the far bank of the river, is the
Chakyak Karpo range. Smaller hills are located within the valley; the
most prominant being Marpori ('Red Mountain') on which the Potala
Palace is constructed, Chakpori (where Tibet's medical college and
temples once stood, now dominated by a radio mast), and Bonpori
(surmounted by a Chinese temple dedicated to Ling Gesar). The Kyi-chu
River at Lhasa meanders past several island sandbanks, among which
Kumalingka ('Thieves' Island'), the best known and an adjacent island
are now partly owned by a Hong Kong business consortium, intent on
constructing casinos and creating a Himalayan Las Vegas! The principal
tributaries of the valley, ie those of Dongkar, Lhalu, Nyangdren and
Doke, have all been integrated into the Chera irrigation system.
The Lhasa valley extends from the Dongkar intersection, near the
Kyi-chu at its western extremity, as far as Ngachen and the hill top
ruins of Dechen Dzong, which overlooks the roads to Yerpa and Ganden
in the extreme E. Access is by road from the SW (Gongkar Airport,
Zhigatse, Gyantse, Tsetang), from the N (Ziling, Damzhung, Yangpachen),
and from the E (Chamdo, Kohgpo and Meldro Gangkar). Recommended
itineraries: 1,3 (also 4-7).
HISTORY OF LHASA
Most buildings of Lhasa may conveniently be assigned to one of three
distinct phases of construction (although older sites have undergone
extensive renovations in subsequent centuries). The earliest phase
coincides with the construction of the Jokhang and Ramoche temples
along with the first Potala Palace during the 7th century; the middle
phase with the building of the great Gelukpa monasteries, the new
Potala Palace and Norbulingka Palace during the 15th-18th centuries;
and the third phase with the recent expansion of the city under
Chinese rule.
Neolithic potsherds and implements of bone and stone which were
excavated at Chogong near Sera in 1984 suggest that the Lhasa valley
was a place of human habitation thousands of years before Songtsen
Gampo unified Tibet and established his capital there. However, it
was in the 6th century that Songtsen Gampo's grandfather, Takri
Nyenzik, gained control over most of the 12 petty kongdoms into which
Tibet had been divided. He did so by overthrowing his own
brother-in-law, Tri Pangsum of Phenyul, who had usurped power from
Takyawo of Nyenkar (Meldro) and tyrannized the clans of the Upper
Kyi-chu valley (those of Wa, Nyang, Non and Tsepong). Takri's son,
Namri Songtsen later succeeded to the throne and gained complete
control over the Kyi-chu valley, thereby establisheing the framework
of the Tibetan Empire; and it was the latter's son, Songtsen Gampo,
who became the first king of unified Tibet. He subjugated the ancient
kingdom of Zhangzhung in the W, and then moved his capital from
Chingwa Taktse in Congye to Rasa, founding the first Potala Palace on
Mt Marpori in 637, and the Rasa Trulnang (ie Jokhang) temple in 641.
Following the construction of the Jokhang temple, the original name
of the city, Rasa, was altered to Lhasa or Lhaden.
King Songtsen Gampo's building activites were influenced by his
Buddhist consorts: in his early years, the Newar queen Bhrkuti had
the Jokhang temple contructed at the centre of a geomantically
important network of temples around the country. In his later years,
the Chinese queen Wengcheng constructed the Rawoche temple; and his
Tibetan queen Monza Tricham founded the temple at Dra Yerpa, N of the
city. Other significant constructions from the period included the
9-storey Pawangka tower/hermitage; and the temples of Mer Nyingba,
Tsamkhung, and Drak Lhaluphuk. Lhasa flourished as the capital of the
Tibetan Empire until the assassination of King Relpachen by Langdrama
in the 9th century resulted in the fragmentation of the country, and
the desecration of the sacred sites.
The next major period of development began in 1409 when Tsonkhapa
instituted the Great Prayer Festival at the Jokhang temple, and the
three great monasteries of the Lhasa region were founded: Ganden in
1409, Drepung in 1416, and Sera in 1419. The Jokhang temple was also
renovated and augmented during this period through the patronage of
the kings of the Phakmodru Dynasty. Eventually, in 1642, Lhasa was
restored as the capital of Tibet, following the defeat of the armies
of the king of Tsang by the Mongol forces of Gushi Qan. With the
latter's assistance, Dalai Lama V established a theocratic form of
government (chosi nyiden) which endured until the occupation of Tibet
by Communist forces in 1951. The four regency temples of Lhasa
developed during this period; but above all, to symbolize the
enhanced status of Lhasa, Dalai Lama V rebuilt the 13-storey Potala
Palace. Later, in the 18th century Dalai Lama VII began the
construction of the summer palace complex at Norbulingka.
Until recent decades, there were only three principal routes around
Lhasa, followed by pilgrims and traders alike; the Nangkhor
(inner circuit) around the Jokhang temple, the Barkhor
(intermediate circuit) with its prolific market stalls, and the
Lingkhor (outer circuit) which skirted the entire city including the
Potala Palace. Pilgrims and traders alike would move around the holy
city on these circuits, invariably in a clockwise direction. The
great religious sites of the city were thus the focal points of
attraction: Jokhang temple surrounded by its Barkhor shrines,
Ramoche and Chakpori, the Potala and Norbulingka palaces, and the
outlying monasteries of Drepung, Nechung, Sera and Pawangka.
Residential parts of the city and its surburbs also had their
distinct names: Rabsel, Hawaling and Telpung-gang to the S and
SW of the Barkhor; Tromzi-gang, Kyire and Banak Zhol to the N of the
Barkhor; Zhol village, nestling below the Potala, Denpak to the NW
of the city, Lhalu, Pelding, and Nyangdreng to the N, Dokde and
Tsangrel to the NE, Nachen and Changdrong to the E, and so forth.
A number of the mordern roads have been named after these places,
which by-and-large survive, although the village in apartment blocks
behind the Potala at Lhalu.
The third and most recent phase of construction in Lhasa has been
carried out under the Chinese occpuation, during which the city has
been subjected to grotesque expansion and transformation, its nobel
buildings obsured by the nondescript concrete tower blocks
characteristic of many present day Chinese cities. Lhasa currently
functions as the capital not of the whole of Tibet, but of the
Tibetan Autonomous Region (Ch Xizang Zizhiqu). As such it is
responsible for the administration of 7 districts: Lhasa, which has
7 counties under its jurisdiction; Lhokha, which has 12 counties;
Nyangtri, which has 18 counties; Ngari, which has 7 counties; Nakchu,
which has 9 counties; and Chamdo, which has 11 counties.
Most of the new buildings constructed in Lhasa reflet a cumbersome
2-tier or 3-tier bureacucracy, in that government departments of the
TAR, Lhasa District, and Lhasa Municipality have their separate
offices dispersed throughout the city. However unwelcome this
development may be, it cannot be ignored, and, indeed, it is with
reference to the plan of contemporary Lhasa, rather than the
traditional pilgrimage circuits, that the visitor will make his or
her way to the ancient and medieval sites of historic importance,
described in the following pages.
ORIENTATION
Most visitors will approach Lhasa from the SW or N, whether driving
the short distance from Gongkar Airport, or the longer overland
routes from Nepal via Zhigatse and from Ziling via Kermo and Nakchu.
These approach roads converge to the W of the city at Dongkar.
Just to the W of Dongkar, the valley begins to open out into a wide
plain and the Potala Palace is visible from afar. A large military
HQ has recently been constructed near the intersection, where an
important petrol station complex and the Dongkar Restaurant are also
located. From Dongkar two roads lead into town: the main paved route,
Chingdrol lam (Ch Jiefang lu; also known as Tsang-gyu lam) follows
the river bank upstream all the way to the E end of the city, and a
dirt road extension of Dekyi lam (Ch Beijing lu) skirts the Lhasa
Cement Factory (Ch Sunyitrang) to enter the city through the defile
between Chakpori and Marpori hills, which formerly marked the true
gateway to the city.
Chingdrol lam
-------------
Chingdrol lam, which also functions as a ring road, passes through
one of the most rapidly developing parts of the city, favoured by the
influx of Chinese immigrants who have established their small
businesses (shops, restaurants, and karaoke bars) to service the
army, which occupies much of the land in this sector of the city.
The road is divided into West Chingdrol lam (Chingdrol Nub lam),
Middle Chingdrol lam (Chingdrol Bar lam), and East Chingdrol lam
(Chingdrol Shar lam).
Starting from Dongkar, you pass to the N side of West Chingdrol lam,
an engineering and machinery institute, and a large military complex
including within it warhouses, carpentry workshops, small farms,
the Chinese Martyrs' Cemetery, Middle School Number Nine, the
College of Agriculture and Animal Husbandry, and the Military
Publications Office. Looking further N you will see the palls of
smoke rising above the yellow buildings of the Lhasa Cement Factory,
and behind them, like a cluster of brilliant white grains of rice on
the hillside of Gephel Utse, the buildings of Drepung Monastery. On
the S side of West Chingdrol lam, towards the river, you will pass
in succession the local police station, the post office warehouse,
the freight depot, the Gang-gyen Development Company, and the
Hospital for Skin Diseases.
Continuing on to Middle Chingdrol lam, you pass on the N side the
TAR Agricultural Machinery company, the TAR schools of banking,
hygene, and finance, and the Long Distance Bus Station. A memorial
dedicated to the workers who died in the construction of the
Ziling-Lhasa highway stands opposite the junction with Mirik lam
(Ch Minzu lu), on which the Norbulingka Palace and Lhasa Holiday Inn
are located. Ahead at this point you will observe the radio and
television mast on the summit of Mt Chakpori, where Lhasa's medical
colleges and temples once stood. Continuing eastwards on Middle
Dhingdrol lam, you will pass to the N the Armed Police HQ and the
TAR Government Offices, while the colourful prayer-flag strewn
bridge to Kumalingka ('Thieves' Island') lies to the S.
After the intersection with Kharngadong lam, which leads towards the
Potala Palace and has a number of fashionable restaurants and
nightclubs, you continue on to East Chingdrol lam, passing in
succession to the S: a large military complex, the Bank of China
Lhasa Branch, the Minorities Hotel, the Sports Stadium, and Middle
School Number One. To the N you pass the Tibetan Medical School and
Middle School Number Eight; and (after the Do Senge lam turn-off
leading to the Hospital of Traditional Medicine and the Jokhang
temple), you pass the Peoples' Art Museum, the Kakak Hotel, and
the Boot Factory. At this point East Lingkhor lam bisects the road.
If, at this crossroads, you continue on East Chingdrol lam, you will
pass on the N side the Lhasa Municipality Government Buildings, the
Sunlight Hotel, and the Kongpo Bus Station, and on the S the Tibet
University campus. From this point the road forms a T-juntion with
East Zamchen lam, leading NW into town or SE across the Lhasa Zamchen
Bridge towards the Upper Kyi-chu valley and Kongpo.
Dekyi lam
----------
Taking the unpaved road into Lhasa from Dongkar, you follow a more
traditional route, along Dekyi lam (Ch Beijing lu which also
stretches the entire length of the city and is divided into W,
Middle and E sections. On West Dekyi lam (Tib Dekyi nub lam), you
pass to the S the factories and residential compounds of the Lhasa
Cement Factory (Ch Sunyitrang), and the Mineral Research Laboratory.
Thereafter, passing through Denpak village, you will observe, Drepung
Monastery and Nechung Monastery. Then, to the N of the road you will
pass the Lhasa City Engineering and Construction Unit and the TAR Rd
Transport Maintenance Head Office; while to the S is the TAR Customs
Office, a green painted building with a clock-tower, marking the
palce where Dekyi lam is intersected by lanes leading N (to Pari
Zimkhang, the TAR Communist Party School and the erstwhile TAR
Tourism Bureau and guesthouse) and S (to the Import-Export Control
Bureau, the Animal and Plant Inspection Department, and Chingdrol lam).
Continuing E on Middle Dekyi lam (Dekyi Bar lam) you pass the the N:
the TAR Hygene Head Office, the TAR Opera Troupe, the TAR Finance
Head Office, the Muslim Cemetery Kache Lingka, the China Building
Bank, the School of Performing Arts, the TAR Civil Adminstration
Buildings, the TAR Scientific Association, the tibet Tourism
Corporation Offices, the Iron Horse Travel Company Office, the
TAR Rd Planning Office, and the TAR Petroleum Company. To the S you
will pass: the TAR Statistics Department, the TAR Insurance Offices,
the Tibet Hotel, the Perik Bookshop, the Workers' Convalescent Home,
the Lhokha District Office, and Lhasa Holiday Inn. In this section of
the road, there are also many small Tibetan and Chinese restaurants
geared to the tourist market (in contrast to those on Chingdrol lam
which largely service the army).
Turning right on to Mirik lam (Ch Minzu lu) which connects Dekyi lam
with Cingdrol lam, you will pass on the E the TAR poples' Conference
Hall and Theatre, the Golden Bridge Travel Office, and the TAR Motor
Parts Travel Office, and the TAR Motor Parts Fitting Company; while
to the W is the main entrance to Holiday Inn, a side road leading to
the Royal Nepalese Consulate and the Yarlung Travel Service, the
entrance to Norbulingka Palace, the TAR Cultural Relics Association,
the TAR Workers' No. 2 Hospital, and the Long Distance Bus Station.
A road known as Norbulingka lam or West Lingkhor lam leads from the
entracne of Norbulingka Palace towards Chakpori Hill and intersects
with Middle Dekyi lam at a large roundabout dominated by two
grotesquely sculpted golden yaks, before continuing into Lhalu and
N Lhasa. On the N side of this road, you will pass Kundeling
Monastery, and the Transport Office Guesthouse, while to the S you
pass the old Television and Radio Broadcasting Offices, the Ling
Gesar temple on Bonpori Hill, and the Trak Lhaluphuk temple complex
on Chakpori Hill. The extension of West Lingkhor lam into Lhalu and
N Lhasa is described below.
Continuing E on Middle Dekyi lam from the Mirik lam intersection,
you pass on the N side the TAR Government Guesthouse (Xizang Zeng
Fu Zhao dai suo), the local Dekyi lam police station, the Electrical
Studies Centre, and the Foreign Trade Company, adjacent to the Golden
Yak Roundabout. On the S side, you will pass the TAR High Court, the
TAR Mapping and Survey Department, and the Lhasa Petrol Station.
After the roundabout, East Dekyi lam (Dekyi Shar lam) begins,
passing through the defile between Chakpori and Marori Hills,
where a stupa gateway once more dominates the approach to the city.
The road here opens out on to the vast and newly constructed Zhol
Square. On the N side of the square you will see in succession the
newly constructed TAR Television and Radio Station, the lingkhro
circuit around the Potala Palace, and the renowned Potala Palace
itself, with the 15th century Zhamarpa Palace in the foreground.
To the S, is the enclosed Zhol Doring, and the open expanse of
Zhol Square (formerly the Cultural Palace Park).
At this point, crossing Kharngadong lam (which leads northwards
to the CAAC Airline Office and the vegetable market), you pass on
the N side, the Lhasa Post Office, and (after the Nyangdren lam
T-junction) the local bus station, the TAR Seismology Head Office,
a children's play centre, the Taxi Company, the Yak Hotel, the
Ramoche lam turn-off leading to Ramoche Temple, and the Peoples'
Court. On the S side, you will pass the Ying Hotel, the Men-tsikhang
lam turn-off leading to the Snowlands Hotel and the Hospital of
Traditional Medicine (Mentsikhang), the Tromzikhang Market, the Kyire
Hotel, and the Banak Zhol Hotel. After the East LIngkhor lam
intersection, which leads S to the Public Security Bureau and
East Chingdrol lam, the road then forms a T-junction with
East Zamchen lam, heading NW into town or SE towards the bridge.
Lingkhor lam
------------
Named after the traditional pilgrimage circuit around the city of
Lhasa, this motor route is still frequented by devotees who come
from all parts of Tibet to circumambulate the hole city. There are
three sections: West Lingkhor lam, extending NE from the Golden Yak
Roundabout towards Lhalu; North Lingkhor lam, extending due E behind
the Potala Palace and Lukhang Temple, as far as the Mongolian
Horseman Roundabout and the Plateau Hotel intersection; and
East Lingkhor lam, extending due S from the latter to the riverside.
On West Lingkhor, after passing the Foreign Trade Office on the left,
you pass the main Lhasa branch of the Bank of China, the
Lhalu Middle School and the District Car Rental Company; and on the
right, overshadowed by the Potala Palace, the side entrance to the
TAR Television and Broadcasting Head Office.
Turning onto North Lingkhor lam (also known as Dzuktrun lam), you
then pass on the left side of the road, the TAR Political Affairs
Head Office, the TAR United Front Work Division, the Peoples'
Publishing House Bookstore, the TAR Geology and Mineral Head Office,
the Office of Foreign Affairs, Lhasa City Police Head Office, the
Gang-gyen Store, and the Plateau Hotel (Gao Yuan). On the S side,
you will pass the N face of the Potala Palace, the Lukhang Temple and
its surrounding park, the Peoples' Hospital (Mimang Menkhang), the
newspaper publishers, Ramoche lam turn-off which leads to Ramoche
Temple, and the Telecommunication Building.
Lastly, East Langkhor lam passes the Peoples' Court, the Peoples'
City Hospital, the Banak Zhol Hotel, the Public Security Bureau,
the mosque Gyel Lhakhang, the Boot Factory, Middle School Number One,
the Carpet Factory, the TAR Mountaineering Institute, the Himalaya
Hotel and the Xue Lian Hotel.
Yutol lam and the Barkhor radial roads of Central Lhasa
-------------------------------------------------------
From the entrance to the Cultural Palace and the TAR Government
Buildings, Yutok lam (also called Mimang lam) leads eastwards to
the gates of the Jokhang, Tibet's holiest shrine and the true centre
of Lhasa. On the S side of this approach road, are the Xinhua
Bookstore, the public baths, Middle School Number Eight, a Tibetan
medical school, the Friendship Store, and the Yutok bridge. After
the Do Senge lam intersection, the Lhasa City Cinema is located on
the S side and the Hospital of Traditional Medicine (Mentsikhang) on
the N side. It is from this point onwards, as the Jokhang is
approached from the W, that the radial road network of ancient Lhasa
begins. Although the replacement of traditional buildings has
greatly diminished the appeal and warmth of the narrow lanes and
gulleys around which Lhasa citizens lived their lives for centuries,
the structure of the road network remains unchanged, except on the
W side where the Jokhang plaza was constructed in the 1960-70 period.
Four large prayer-flags are situated within the Barkhor
('intermediate circuit') market which surrounds the Jokhang, known
respectively as Ganden Darchen in the NE, Juyag Darchen in the W,
Kelzang Darchen in the SW, and Sharkyaring Darchen in the SE.
Working clockwise from the W side, there is a northern lane,
called Mentsikhang lam, due E of the Hospital of Traditional Medicine,
which leads to East Dekyi lam and is known for its restaurants and
tea houses. The regency temple Tengye Ling is approached via an alley
behind the hospital. A second road runs NE from the plaza towards
the Tromzikang market via the butter and meat markets, also giving
access to East Dekyi lam. Having entered upon the Barkhor circuit,
the third road extends SE from the NE corner. The fourth road, known
as Waling lam (or Dunsisung lam), leads SE from the SE corner towards
the nunnery of Ani Tsamkhung, the mosque of Gyel Lhakhang and
East Chingdrol lam. The fifth, known as Rabsel lam, leads SW from the
SE corner, and the last Gyedu lam, leads SW from the SW (Barkhor Cafe)
corner.
North Lhasa
-----------
As already indicated, there are a number of N-S roads intersecting
with Chingdrol lam and Dekyi lam, the two main E-W arteries of the
city. Among these, the most important are: Lhalu lam, extending due
N from West Lingkhor lam via Lhalu to Pelding commune; Nyangdren lam,
extending due N from the Post Office on Dekyi lam to Pawangka and
Sera Monastery; and Dokde lam, extending NE from the Plateau Hotel
intersection out of town.
On Lhalu lam, you pass on the W side of the road, the New Zhol
village, Lhalu village, and Pelding, where there is a quarry and an
oxygen production plant. On the E side you pass the TAR Women's
Affairs Office, the TAR Procurator's Office, and the Chamdo District
Office.
On Nyangdren lam, you pass on the W side the TAR Government Personnel
Department, Lukhang Park, the TAR Religious Affairs Office, Lhasa
City Maintenance Department, the TAR Transport Company, the local
police station, the Compounding Factory of the Hospital of
Traditional Medicine, the TAR Gymnastics Association, the Gymnasium,
the Zhigatse District Office, the Ngari District Office, Middle
School Number Six, Lhasa Teacher Training College and the School of
Hygene. On the E side, you will pass the Post Office, the Fine Art
Company, the Nakchu District Office, the Inpatients Hospital of
Traditional Medicine, the University of Traditional Medicine
(Sorik Lobdra Chenmo), Ngari Branch of the Lhasa City Bank, the
Race Course, Xinhua Press, and a number of workers' schools.
Thereafter, the road leads due N to the Military Hospital and
Pawangka, while a detour leads due E to Sera Monastery and the
nearby Sky Burial Site.
On Dokde lam, you pass on the W side the Lhasa Television and
Broadcasting Head Office, the Power Station Construction Company,
the Epidemic Prevention Department, the North Fire Station, an
armed police unit, and various electriacal or engineering companies.
On the E side, you pass the Plateau Hotel, the Ganlho Amdo Office,
the armed police reserve units and TAR security offices, Middle
School Number Four, the Commercial School, pharmaceutical companies,
motor repair units and agricultural machine suppliers.
The Academy of Social Science is located in a street between
Nyangdren lam and Dokde lam, alongside a satellite station, an
armed police hopsital, a fertilizer factory, and a hydro-electric
power plant.
East Lhasa
-----------
Among the outlying easterly parts of the city, Ngachen lam, the
extension of North Lingkhor lam, leads out of town towards a power
station of the same name and the hilltop ruins of Dechen Dzong. En
route, you pass by the International Satellite Station, a series of
armed and unarmed police units, Middle School Number Three, and a
flour mill.
South Lhasa
-----------
The S bank of the Kyi-chu River is relatively undeveloped. Most
buildings belong to the military, but there are a number of outlying
farming villages: Dekyi Khangsar, Zhapa, Nupa, Gepho and so forth.
At Drib, the regency temple of Tsechokling has been rebuilt.
PRAYER FLAGS
============
In Tibet, any prominant place exposed to the wind may be adorned with
multicoloured prayer flags (darchok), permitting the natural power of
the wind to distribute the blessings of their inscribed prayers as
they flap to and fro, for which reason they are known also as
'horses of the wind' (lungta). Domestic rooftops and monastery
compounds often have large poles to which these flags are attached,
and renewed annually on the 3rd day after the Tibetan New Year.
Similiary, most mountain passes (la-tse) are marked by cairns of
stones (some inscribed with mantras), to which sets of prayer-flags
are attached. Whereever public buses or private jeeps cross over a
major pass, the passengers will invaribaly deisembark to add a stone
to the cairn, or tie a newly prepared set of prayer flags and burn
incense as an offering to the spirit of the mountain, who would have
been tamed and appointed protector of Buddhism by Padmasambhava back
in the 8th century. Some will cast paper prayer-flags into the air
from the bus window, rejoicing loudly in the ancient paean:
"Kyi-kyi so-so! May the gods be victorious!" (lha-gyel-lo).
A single set of cotton prayer-flags is ordered in the sequence:
blue, wihte, red, green and yellow, respectively symbolizing the
five elements: space, water, fire, air and earth. In each corner of
the flag there may be a protective animal; garuda (top-left),
dargon (top-right), tiger (bottom-left), and lion (bottom-right),
while the mantra-syllables forming the main part of the inscription
may vary according to the preferrd meditational deity of the devotee.
Those of the three bodhisattvas: Avalokiteshvara, Manjughosa, and
Vajrapani are commonplace, as are the mantras of the female
bodhisattva Tara, who protects travellers from the diverse dangers of
the road.
TIBET HANDBOOK
Gyurme Dorje
Trade & Travel Publications Ltd. January 1996
ISBN 0 900571 69 X
LHASA
=====
BASICS
Area 664 sq km; Alt 3,590m; STD code (86)-891; Main languages Tibetan
and Chinese; Distance from Gongkar Airport 96 km; Temperature Jan:
max 10C, min -8C, July: max 25C, min 10C; Oxygen 68%; Annual
precipitation 1,462 mm, of which 90% falls in summer and early autumn
(July/Sept). Kyi-chu run-off approximately 16-19 litres/second/sq km.
SOCIAL INDICATORS
Population 160,000; Han immigrant population 29% (excludes mobile
unregistered Han population of approximately 80,000). Literacy 66%.
Birth rate 18:1,000. Infant mortality rate 129:1,000. Death rate
14:1,000. Religion (Buddhist 73%, Muslim 2%, Atheist 25%).
CLIMATE: LHASA
-----------------------------------------------
J F M A M J
-7,9 | -6,9 | -1,13 | 4,16 | 7,20 | 11,23 |
-----------------------------------------------
J A S O N D
11,22 | 10,21 | 7,21 | 2,17 | -4,11 | -7,7 |
BEST TIME: mid-March -- mid-Novmember
The holy city of Lhasa (Ch Lasa Shiqu) is the historic capital of
Tibet, situated on the N bank of the Kyi-chu River, where the valley
opens out to its fullest extent. To the N of the city lies an
impenetrable 5,200m range, extending from Mt Gephel Utse (above
Drepung in the W) to Mt Dukri Tse (above Pawangka) and Mt Sera Utse
(above Sera in the E). To the S, on the far bank of the river, is the
Chakyak Karpo range. Smaller hills are located within the valley; the
most prominant being Marpori ('Red Mountain') on which the Potala
Palace is constructed, Chakpori (where Tibet's medical college and
temples once stood, now dominated by a radio mast), and Bonpori
(surmounted by a Chinese temple dedicated to Ling Gesar). The Kyi-chu
River at Lhasa meanders past several island sandbanks, among which
Kumalingka ('Thieves' Island'), the best known and an adjacent island
are now partly owned by a Hong Kong business consortium, intent on
constructing casinos and creating a Himalayan Las Vegas! The principal
tributaries of the valley, ie those of Dongkar, Lhalu, Nyangdren and
Doke, have all been integrated into the Chera irrigation system.
The Lhasa valley extends from the Dongkar intersection, near the
Kyi-chu at its western extremity, as far as Ngachen and the hill top
ruins of Dechen Dzong, which overlooks the roads to Yerpa and Ganden
in the extreme E. Access is by road from the SW (Gongkar Airport,
Zhigatse, Gyantse, Tsetang), from the N (Ziling, Damzhung, Yangpachen),
and from the E (Chamdo, Kohgpo and Meldro Gangkar). Recommended
itineraries: 1,3 (also 4-7).
HISTORY OF LHASA
Most buildings of Lhasa may conveniently be assigned to one of three
distinct phases of construction (although older sites have undergone
extensive renovations in subsequent centuries). The earliest phase
coincides with the construction of the Jokhang and Ramoche temples
along with the first Potala Palace during the 7th century; the middle
phase with the building of the great Gelukpa monasteries, the new
Potala Palace and Norbulingka Palace during the 15th-18th centuries;
and the third phase with the recent expansion of the city under
Chinese rule.
Neolithic potsherds and implements of bone and stone which were
excavated at Chogong near Sera in 1984 suggest that the Lhasa valley
was a place of human habitation thousands of years before Songtsen
Gampo unified Tibet and established his capital there. However, it
was in the 6th century that Songtsen Gampo's grandfather, Takri
Nyenzik, gained control over most of the 12 petty kongdoms into which
Tibet had been divided. He did so by overthrowing his own
brother-in-law, Tri Pangsum of Phenyul, who had usurped power from
Takyawo of Nyenkar (Meldro) and tyrannized the clans of the Upper
Kyi-chu valley (those of Wa, Nyang, Non and Tsepong). Takri's son,
Namri Songtsen later succeeded to the throne and gained complete
control over the Kyi-chu valley, thereby establisheing the framework
of the Tibetan Empire; and it was the latter's son, Songtsen Gampo,
who became the first king of unified Tibet. He subjugated the ancient
kingdom of Zhangzhung in the W, and then moved his capital from
Chingwa Taktse in Congye to Rasa, founding the first Potala Palace on
Mt Marpori in 637, and the Rasa Trulnang (ie Jokhang) temple in 641.
Following the construction of the Jokhang temple, the original name
of the city, Rasa, was altered to Lhasa or Lhaden.
King Songtsen Gampo's building activites were influenced by his
Buddhist consorts: in his early years, the Newar queen Bhrkuti had
the Jokhang temple contructed at the centre of a geomantically
important network of temples around the country. In his later years,
the Chinese queen Wengcheng constructed the Rawoche temple; and his
Tibetan queen Monza Tricham founded the temple at Dra Yerpa, N of the
city. Other significant constructions from the period included the
9-storey Pawangka tower/hermitage; and the temples of Mer Nyingba,
Tsamkhung, and Drak Lhaluphuk. Lhasa flourished as the capital of the
Tibetan Empire until the assassination of King Relpachen by Langdrama
in the 9th century resulted in the fragmentation of the country, and
the desecration of the sacred sites.
The next major period of development began in 1409 when Tsonkhapa
instituted the Great Prayer Festival at the Jokhang temple, and the
three great monasteries of the Lhasa region were founded: Ganden in
1409, Drepung in 1416, and Sera in 1419. The Jokhang temple was also
renovated and augmented during this period through the patronage of
the kings of the Phakmodru Dynasty. Eventually, in 1642, Lhasa was
restored as the capital of Tibet, following the defeat of the armies
of the king of Tsang by the Mongol forces of Gushi Qan. With the
latter's assistance, Dalai Lama V established a theocratic form of
government (chosi nyiden) which endured until the occupation of Tibet
by Communist forces in 1951. The four regency temples of Lhasa
developed during this period; but above all, to symbolize the
enhanced status of Lhasa, Dalai Lama V rebuilt the 13-storey Potala
Palace. Later, in the 18th century Dalai Lama VII began the
construction of the summer palace complex at Norbulingka.
Until recent decades, there were only three principal routes around
Lhasa, followed by pilgrims and traders alike; the Nangkhor
(inner circuit) around the Jokhang temple, the Barkhor
(intermediate circuit) with its prolific market stalls, and the
Lingkhor (outer circuit) which skirted the entire city including the
Potala Palace. Pilgrims and traders alike would move around the holy
city on these circuits, invariably in a clockwise direction. The
great religious sites of the city were thus the focal points of
attraction: Jokhang temple surrounded by its Barkhor shrines,
Ramoche and Chakpori, the Potala and Norbulingka palaces, and the
outlying monasteries of Drepung, Nechung, Sera and Pawangka.
Residential parts of the city and its surburbs also had their
distinct names: Rabsel, Hawaling and Telpung-gang to the S and
SW of the Barkhor; Tromzi-gang, Kyire and Banak Zhol to the N of the
Barkhor; Zhol village, nestling below the Potala, Denpak to the NW
of the city, Lhalu, Pelding, and Nyangdreng to the N, Dokde and
Tsangrel to the NE, Nachen and Changdrong to the E, and so forth.
A number of the mordern roads have been named after these places,
which by-and-large survive, although the village in apartment blocks
behind the Potala at Lhalu.
The third and most recent phase of construction in Lhasa has been
carried out under the Chinese occpuation, during which the city has
been subjected to grotesque expansion and transformation, its nobel
buildings obsured by the nondescript concrete tower blocks
characteristic of many present day Chinese cities. Lhasa currently
functions as the capital not of the whole of Tibet, but of the
Tibetan Autonomous Region (Ch Xizang Zizhiqu). As such it is
responsible for the administration of 7 districts: Lhasa, which has
7 counties under its jurisdiction; Lhokha, which has 12 counties;
Nyangtri, which has 18 counties; Ngari, which has 7 counties; Nakchu,
which has 9 counties; and Chamdo, which has 11 counties.
Most of the new buildings constructed in Lhasa reflet a cumbersome
2-tier or 3-tier bureacucracy, in that government departments of the
TAR, Lhasa District, and Lhasa Municipality have their separate
offices dispersed throughout the city. However unwelcome this
development may be, it cannot be ignored, and, indeed, it is with
reference to the plan of contemporary Lhasa, rather than the
traditional pilgrimage circuits, that the visitor will make his or
her way to the ancient and medieval sites of historic importance,
described in the following pages.
ORIENTATION
Most visitors will approach Lhasa from the SW or N, whether driving
the short distance from Gongkar Airport, or the longer overland
routes from Nepal via Zhigatse and from Ziling via Kermo and Nakchu.
These approach roads converge to the W of the city at Dongkar.
Just to the W of Dongkar, the valley begins to open out into a wide
plain and the Potala Palace is visible from afar. A large military
HQ has recently been constructed near the intersection, where an
important petrol station complex and the Dongkar Restaurant are also
located. From Dongkar two roads lead into town: the main paved route,
Chingdrol lam (Ch Jiefang lu; also known as Tsang-gyu lam) follows
the river bank upstream all the way to the E end of the city, and a
dirt road extension of Dekyi lam (Ch Beijing lu) skirts the Lhasa
Cement Factory (Ch Sunyitrang) to enter the city through the defile
between Chakpori and Marpori hills, which formerly marked the true
gateway to the city.
Chingdrol lam
-------------
Chingdrol lam, which also functions as a ring road, passes through
one of the most rapidly developing parts of the city, favoured by the
influx of Chinese immigrants who have established their small
businesses (shops, restaurants, and karaoke bars) to service the
army, which occupies much of the land in this sector of the city.
The road is divided into West Chingdrol lam (Chingdrol Nub lam),
Middle Chingdrol lam (Chingdrol Bar lam), and East Chingdrol lam
(Chingdrol Shar lam).
Starting from Dongkar, you pass to the N side of West Chingdrol lam,
an engineering and machinery institute, and a large military complex
including within it warhouses, carpentry workshops, small farms,
the Chinese Martyrs' Cemetery, Middle School Number Nine, the
College of Agriculture and Animal Husbandry, and the Military
Publications Office. Looking further N you will see the palls of
smoke rising above the yellow buildings of the Lhasa Cement Factory,
and behind them, like a cluster of brilliant white grains of rice on
the hillside of Gephel Utse, the buildings of Drepung Monastery. On
the S side of West Chingdrol lam, towards the river, you will pass
in succession the local police station, the post office warehouse,
the freight depot, the Gang-gyen Development Company, and the
Hospital for Skin Diseases.
Continuing on to Middle Chingdrol lam, you pass on the N side the
TAR Agricultural Machinery company, the TAR schools of banking,
hygene, and finance, and the Long Distance Bus Station. A memorial
dedicated to the workers who died in the construction of the
Ziling-Lhasa highway stands opposite the junction with Mirik lam
(Ch Minzu lu), on which the Norbulingka Palace and Lhasa Holiday Inn
are located. Ahead at this point you will observe the radio and
television mast on the summit of Mt Chakpori, where Lhasa's medical
colleges and temples once stood. Continuing eastwards on Middle
Dhingdrol lam, you will pass to the N the Armed Police HQ and the
TAR Government Offices, while the colourful prayer-flag strewn
bridge to Kumalingka ('Thieves' Island') lies to the S.
After the intersection with Kharngadong lam, which leads towards the
Potala Palace and has a number of fashionable restaurants and
nightclubs, you continue on to East Chingdrol lam, passing in
succession to the S: a large military complex, the Bank of China
Lhasa Branch, the Minorities Hotel, the Sports Stadium, and Middle
School Number One. To the N you pass the Tibetan Medical School and
Middle School Number Eight; and (after the Do Senge lam turn-off
leading to the Hospital of Traditional Medicine and the Jokhang
temple), you pass the Peoples' Art Museum, the Kakak Hotel, and
the Boot Factory. At this point East Lingkhor lam bisects the road.
If, at this crossroads, you continue on East Chingdrol lam, you will
pass on the N side the Lhasa Municipality Government Buildings, the
Sunlight Hotel, and the Kongpo Bus Station, and on the S the Tibet
University campus. From this point the road forms a T-juntion with
East Zamchen lam, leading NW into town or SE across the Lhasa Zamchen
Bridge towards the Upper Kyi-chu valley and Kongpo.
Dekyi lam
----------
Taking the unpaved road into Lhasa from Dongkar, you follow a more
traditional route, along Dekyi lam (Ch Beijing lu which also
stretches the entire length of the city and is divided into W,
Middle and E sections. On West Dekyi lam (Tib Dekyi nub lam), you
pass to the S the factories and residential compounds of the Lhasa
Cement Factory (Ch Sunyitrang), and the Mineral Research Laboratory.
Thereafter, passing through Denpak village, you will observe, Drepung
Monastery and Nechung Monastery. Then, to the N of the road you will
pass the Lhasa City Engineering and Construction Unit and the TAR Rd
Transport Maintenance Head Office; while to the S is the TAR Customs
Office, a green painted building with a clock-tower, marking the
palce where Dekyi lam is intersected by lanes leading N (to Pari
Zimkhang, the TAR Communist Party School and the erstwhile TAR
Tourism Bureau and guesthouse) and S (to the Import-Export Control
Bureau, the Animal and Plant Inspection Department, and Chingdrol lam).
Continuing E on Middle Dekyi lam (Dekyi Bar lam) you pass the the N:
the TAR Hygene Head Office, the TAR Opera Troupe, the TAR Finance
Head Office, the Muslim Cemetery Kache Lingka, the China Building
Bank, the School of Performing Arts, the TAR Civil Adminstration
Buildings, the TAR Scientific Association, the tibet Tourism
Corporation Offices, the Iron Horse Travel Company Office, the
TAR Rd Planning Office, and the TAR Petroleum Company. To the S you
will pass: the TAR Statistics Department, the TAR Insurance Offices,
the Tibet Hotel, the Perik Bookshop, the Workers' Convalescent Home,
the Lhokha District Office, and Lhasa Holiday Inn. In this section of
the road, there are also many small Tibetan and Chinese restaurants
geared to the tourist market (in contrast to those on Chingdrol lam
which largely service the army).
Turning right on to Mirik lam (Ch Minzu lu) which connects Dekyi lam
with Cingdrol lam, you will pass on the E the TAR poples' Conference
Hall and Theatre, the Golden Bridge Travel Office, and the TAR Motor
Parts Travel Office, and the TAR Motor Parts Fitting Company; while
to the W is the main entrance to Holiday Inn, a side road leading to
the Royal Nepalese Consulate and the Yarlung Travel Service, the
entrance to Norbulingka Palace, the TAR Cultural Relics Association,
the TAR Workers' No. 2 Hospital, and the Long Distance Bus Station.
A road known as Norbulingka lam or West Lingkhor lam leads from the
entracne of Norbulingka Palace towards Chakpori Hill and intersects
with Middle Dekyi lam at a large roundabout dominated by two
grotesquely sculpted golden yaks, before continuing into Lhalu and
N Lhasa. On the N side of this road, you will pass Kundeling
Monastery, and the Transport Office Guesthouse, while to the S you
pass the old Television and Radio Broadcasting Offices, the Ling
Gesar temple on Bonpori Hill, and the Trak Lhaluphuk temple complex
on Chakpori Hill. The extension of West Lingkhor lam into Lhalu and
N Lhasa is described below.
Continuing E on Middle Dekyi lam from the Mirik lam intersection,
you pass on the N side the TAR Government Guesthouse (Xizang Zeng
Fu Zhao dai suo), the local Dekyi lam police station, the Electrical
Studies Centre, and the Foreign Trade Company, adjacent to the Golden
Yak Roundabout. On the S side, you will pass the TAR High Court, the
TAR Mapping and Survey Department, and the Lhasa Petrol Station.
After the roundabout, East Dekyi lam (Dekyi Shar lam) begins,
passing through the defile between Chakpori and Marori Hills,
where a stupa gateway once more dominates the approach to the city.
The road here opens out on to the vast and newly constructed Zhol
Square. On the N side of the square you will see in succession the
newly constructed TAR Television and Radio Station, the lingkhro
circuit around the Potala Palace, and the renowned Potala Palace
itself, with the 15th century Zhamarpa Palace in the foreground.
To the S, is the enclosed Zhol Doring, and the open expanse of
Zhol Square (formerly the Cultural Palace Park).
At this point, crossing Kharngadong lam (which leads northwards
to the CAAC Airline Office and the vegetable market), you pass on
the N side, the Lhasa Post Office, and (after the Nyangdren lam
T-junction) the local bus station, the TAR Seismology Head Office,
a children's play centre, the Taxi Company, the Yak Hotel, the
Ramoche lam turn-off leading to Ramoche Temple, and the Peoples'
Court. On the S side, you will pass the Ying Hotel, the Men-tsikhang
lam turn-off leading to the Snowlands Hotel and the Hospital of
Traditional Medicine (Mentsikhang), the Tromzikhang Market, the Kyire
Hotel, and the Banak Zhol Hotel. After the East LIngkhor lam
intersection, which leads S to the Public Security Bureau and
East Chingdrol lam, the road then forms a T-junction with
East Zamchen lam, heading NW into town or SE towards the bridge.
Lingkhor lam
------------
Named after the traditional pilgrimage circuit around the city of
Lhasa, this motor route is still frequented by devotees who come
from all parts of Tibet to circumambulate the hole city. There are
three sections: West Lingkhor lam, extending NE from the Golden Yak
Roundabout towards Lhalu; North Lingkhor lam, extending due E behind
the Potala Palace and Lukhang Temple, as far as the Mongolian
Horseman Roundabout and the Plateau Hotel intersection; and
East Lingkhor lam, extending due S from the latter to the riverside.
On West Lingkhor, after passing the Foreign Trade Office on the left,
you pass the main Lhasa branch of the Bank of China, the
Lhalu Middle School and the District Car Rental Company; and on the
right, overshadowed by the Potala Palace, the side entrance to the
TAR Television and Broadcasting Head Office.
Turning onto North Lingkhor lam (also known as Dzuktrun lam), you
then pass on the left side of the road, the TAR Political Affairs
Head Office, the TAR United Front Work Division, the Peoples'
Publishing House Bookstore, the TAR Geology and Mineral Head Office,
the Office of Foreign Affairs, Lhasa City Police Head Office, the
Gang-gyen Store, and the Plateau Hotel (Gao Yuan). On the S side,
you will pass the N face of the Potala Palace, the Lukhang Temple and
its surrounding park, the Peoples' Hospital (Mimang Menkhang), the
newspaper publishers, Ramoche lam turn-off which leads to Ramoche
Temple, and the Telecommunication Building.
Lastly, East Langkhor lam passes the Peoples' Court, the Peoples'
City Hospital, the Banak Zhol Hotel, the Public Security Bureau,
the mosque Gyel Lhakhang, the Boot Factory, Middle School Number One,
the Carpet Factory, the TAR Mountaineering Institute, the Himalaya
Hotel and the Xue Lian Hotel.
Yutol lam and the Barkhor radial roads of Central Lhasa
-------------------------------------------------------
From the entrance to the Cultural Palace and the TAR Government
Buildings, Yutok lam (also called Mimang lam) leads eastwards to
the gates of the Jokhang, Tibet's holiest shrine and the true centre
of Lhasa. On the S side of this approach road, are the Xinhua
Bookstore, the public baths, Middle School Number Eight, a Tibetan
medical school, the Friendship Store, and the Yutok bridge. After
the Do Senge lam intersection, the Lhasa City Cinema is located on
the S side and the Hospital of Traditional Medicine (Mentsikhang) on
the N side. It is from this point onwards, as the Jokhang is
approached from the W, that the radial road network of ancient Lhasa
begins. Although the replacement of traditional buildings has
greatly diminished the appeal and warmth of the narrow lanes and
gulleys around which Lhasa citizens lived their lives for centuries,
the structure of the road network remains unchanged, except on the
W side where the Jokhang plaza was constructed in the 1960-70 period.
Four large prayer-flags are situated within the Barkhor
('intermediate circuit') market which surrounds the Jokhang, known
respectively as Ganden Darchen in the NE, Juyag Darchen in the W,
Kelzang Darchen in the SW, and Sharkyaring Darchen in the SE.
Working clockwise from the W side, there is a northern lane,
called Mentsikhang lam, due E of the Hospital of Traditional Medicine,
which leads to East Dekyi lam and is known for its restaurants and
tea houses. The regency temple Tengye Ling is approached via an alley
behind the hospital. A second road runs NE from the plaza towards
the Tromzikang market via the butter and meat markets, also giving
access to East Dekyi lam. Having entered upon the Barkhor circuit,
the third road extends SE from the NE corner. The fourth road, known
as Waling lam (or Dunsisung lam), leads SE from the SE corner towards
the nunnery of Ani Tsamkhung, the mosque of Gyel Lhakhang and
East Chingdrol lam. The fifth, known as Rabsel lam, leads SW from the
SE corner, and the last Gyedu lam, leads SW from the SW (Barkhor Cafe)
corner.
North Lhasa
-----------
As already indicated, there are a number of N-S roads intersecting
with Chingdrol lam and Dekyi lam, the two main E-W arteries of the
city. Among these, the most important are: Lhalu lam, extending due
N from West Lingkhor lam via Lhalu to Pelding commune; Nyangdren lam,
extending due N from the Post Office on Dekyi lam to Pawangka and
Sera Monastery; and Dokde lam, extending NE from the Plateau Hotel
intersection out of town.
On Lhalu lam, you pass on the W side of the road, the New Zhol
village, Lhalu village, and Pelding, where there is a quarry and an
oxygen production plant. On the E side you pass the TAR Women's
Affairs Office, the TAR Procurator's Office, and the Chamdo District
Office.
On Nyangdren lam, you pass on the W side the TAR Government Personnel
Department, Lukhang Park, the TAR Religious Affairs Office, Lhasa
City Maintenance Department, the TAR Transport Company, the local
police station, the Compounding Factory of the Hospital of
Traditional Medicine, the TAR Gymnastics Association, the Gymnasium,
the Zhigatse District Office, the Ngari District Office, Middle
School Number Six, Lhasa Teacher Training College and the School of
Hygene. On the E side, you will pass the Post Office, the Fine Art
Company, the Nakchu District Office, the Inpatients Hospital of
Traditional Medicine, the University of Traditional Medicine
(Sorik Lobdra Chenmo), Ngari Branch of the Lhasa City Bank, the
Race Course, Xinhua Press, and a number of workers' schools.
Thereafter, the road leads due N to the Military Hospital and
Pawangka, while a detour leads due E to Sera Monastery and the
nearby Sky Burial Site.
On Dokde lam, you pass on the W side the Lhasa Television and
Broadcasting Head Office, the Power Station Construction Company,
the Epidemic Prevention Department, the North Fire Station, an
armed police unit, and various electriacal or engineering companies.
On the E side, you pass the Plateau Hotel, the Ganlho Amdo Office,
the armed police reserve units and TAR security offices, Middle
School Number Four, the Commercial School, pharmaceutical companies,
motor repair units and agricultural machine suppliers.
The Academy of Social Science is located in a street between
Nyangdren lam and Dokde lam, alongside a satellite station, an
armed police hopsital, a fertilizer factory, and a hydro-electric
power plant.
East Lhasa
-----------
Among the outlying easterly parts of the city, Ngachen lam, the
extension of North Lingkhor lam, leads out of town towards a power
station of the same name and the hilltop ruins of Dechen Dzong. En
route, you pass by the International Satellite Station, a series of
armed and unarmed police units, Middle School Number Three, and a
flour mill.
South Lhasa
-----------
The S bank of the Kyi-chu River is relatively undeveloped. Most
buildings belong to the military, but there are a number of outlying
farming villages: Dekyi Khangsar, Zhapa, Nupa, Gepho and so forth.
At Drib, the regency temple of Tsechokling has been rebuilt.
PRAYER FLAGS
============
In Tibet, any prominant place exposed to the wind may be adorned with
multicoloured prayer flags (darchok), permitting the natural power of
the wind to distribute the blessings of their inscribed prayers as
they flap to and fro, for which reason they are known also as
'horses of the wind' (lungta). Domestic rooftops and monastery
compounds often have large poles to which these flags are attached,
and renewed annually on the 3rd day after the Tibetan New Year.
Similiary, most mountain passes (la-tse) are marked by cairns of
stones (some inscribed with mantras), to which sets of prayer-flags
are attached. Whereever public buses or private jeeps cross over a
major pass, the passengers will invaribaly deisembark to add a stone
to the cairn, or tie a newly prepared set of prayer flags and burn
incense as an offering to the spirit of the mountain, who would have
been tamed and appointed protector of Buddhism by Padmasambhava back
in the 8th century. Some will cast paper prayer-flags into the air
from the bus window, rejoicing loudly in the ancient paean:
"Kyi-kyi so-so! May the gods be victorious!" (lha-gyel-lo).
A single set of cotton prayer-flags is ordered in the sequence:
blue, wihte, red, green and yellow, respectively symbolizing the
five elements: space, water, fire, air and earth. In each corner of
the flag there may be a protective animal; garuda (top-left),
dargon (top-right), tiger (bottom-left), and lion (bottom-right),
while the mantra-syllables forming the main part of the inscription
may vary according to the preferrd meditational deity of the devotee.
Those of the three bodhisattvas: Avalokiteshvara, Manjughosa, and
Vajrapani are commonplace, as are the mantras of the female
bodhisattva Tara, who protects travellers from the diverse dangers of
the road.
TIBET HANDBOOK
Gyurme Dorje
Trade & Travel Publications Ltd. January 1996
ISBN 0 900571 69 X
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